Chow Down: Dinner Bell Restaurant, Eagleville, MO

By Steve Johnson

Interstate 35 welcomes travelers heading north or south in America's Heartland, as it stretches approximately 1,300 miles from San Antonio to Minneapolis. Along this route, fitting nicely in the midsection between the expanse of Kansas City and Des Moines is the community of Eagleville, MO, population 400. The truck stop located in Eagleville happens to be the home of the Dinner Bell Restaurant, a favorite of locals, truckers and travelers alike. In actuality, the Dinner Bell predates the interstate system, established more than a half a century ago. In the 1950s, highway 69 was a significant north/south artery, and the restaurant and truck stop conducted commerce off Highway 69. Acknowledging the business the interstate would bring, the truck stop and restaurant relocated next to I-35 in the fall of 1974. The Dinner Bell and Eagleville Travel Express, its official name, remains there today, at exit 106.

Two generations of the Harrold Family have successfully operated the Dinner Bell Restaurant and truck stop for 54 years, and that responsibility is currently in the hands of Glen Harrold. "I've been working at the truck stop and restaurant since I was 14," remembers Glen. While talking to Glen, it's obvious that it is hard to separate the operations of the truck stop from the restaurant because their operations are so closely related. "The business has changed," Glen continues. "In my youth, the core of our business was with small regional trucking companies. We would visit their headquarters, encouraging their owners to open accounts with us, allowing their drivers to easily purchase fuel, and repair services from our truck stop. There was a time when most truckers were known by name when they entered our property. Now the local trucking companies are few and the national trucking chains maintain national fuel and repair contracts elsewhere. We see very little of that business." The popularity of the Dinner Bell Restaurant, thank goodness, has remains a constant.

It's hard to deny the lasting impact and the goodwill, generated by 50+ years of quality cooking, which was apparent while researching this article. My inquiring phone calls to the local post office, motel, high school, and newspaper, were all greeted with, "Sure we've eaten at the Dinner Bell; they're famous for the homemade cinnamon rolls and desserts." Or, "If you're going to eat at the Dinner Bell make sure you order the most popular item on their menu--their large hand breaded tenderloins--they're awesome."

"Back in the day, All Star Wrestlers competing for the Central State Crown would stop in as they made the Omaha, St. Joseph, Des Moines, and Kansas City loop. Bull Dog Bob Brown, The Viking, Danny Little Bear and others, all have eaten here," recalls Glen Harrold. "This continues to be a stop for college sports teams," and with that, Glen remarkably reels off the names of the teams in the MIAA Conference not only by name, "NW Missouri State, Drake, Pittsburg State, William Jewell," but often includes their coaches names with the ease of a friend thumbing through a photo album. "Although we're 90 miles north of Kansas City, you'd be surprised how many people in Northern Missouri make the trek to Arrowhead and on game day to see the Chiefs, we get some of that business. Conversely, locals heading 80 miles north to Des Moines for one activity or another will stop as well," says Glen. A tour bus occasionally stops by, families attending area high school sporting events, salesmen, all well aware of the food the Dinner Bell offers. The Sunday luncheon buffets attract locals and breakfast is popular. The Dinner Bell has been open 24 hours a day for the last 54 years.

"Much of my staff has been with me a long time," Glen pauses as he thinks, "yes, 28 years, 24 years and a recent retirement after 34 years. We've been fortunate to have ladies capable of good home cooking, work for us a long time. High school kids gather here after Friday games. Did I mention we serve these huge hand breaded tenderloins?" This writer suspects one can eat well at The Dinner Bell on ten bucks.

So, if you are traveling on I-35 and find yourself in the Heartland between Kansas City and Des Moines, watch those exit markets and keep a keen eye out for exit 106 Eagleville. I suggest you take that exit and follow the well worn path to the Dinner Bell. Order the tenderloin, some homemade dessert, perhaps some cinnamon rolls to go, and give a friendly nod to the waitress and perhaps smile if the cook becomes visible through the door, appreciating that in all likelihood both have been there a long time. In this world of cookie cutter restaurants and tonnage truck stops, places like the Dinner Bell Restaurant do exist.